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Recent Articles from Ultimo Proximo  ...


How to kill your boat batteries over winter (Jun 2004)


If you have a fridge on your boat you are probably obsessive about batteries. If you are not the fridge is turned off. If you do not have a fridge but have a radio you need power to run it and the power comes from your batteries. You might find the following which came from the Ample Power Primer (www.amplepower.com) useful.

Best methods to kill your batteries:

  • Overcharge the battery by applying a voltage above 13.8 Volts for extended periods.
  • Undercharge the battery by never charging it beyond 13.8 Volts.
  • Discharge the battery and leave it that way for a few days or weeks.
  • Let the battery sit unattended without charging (refer below).
  • Repeatedly discharge the battery beyond the optimum 50%.
  • Allow the electrolyte to slosh around when the battery is deeply discharged.
  • Boil enough electrolyte to expose the plates.
  • Charge or discharge at too high a rate.
  • Use a starter battery in a deep cycle application.
  • Leaving Batteries unattended.

    Non sealed batteries with a liquid electrolyte are likely to have lead-antimony plates. While antimony makes the plates stronger, it also causes battery cells to self–discharge more rapidly. Self–discharge is a deleterious discharge because it creates a hard lead sulfate that crystallizes and ultimately destroys the battery. The only way to avoid self–discharge is to keep lead–antimony batteries on a charger when not in use.

    Maintenance free batteries may have lead-calcium plates which have a lower rate of discharge, particularly in cold weather. They may appreciate a charge a couple of times over winter.

    GEL and AGM batteries have low rates of discharge.

    Types of batteries:

    Starting Battery

    A car battery. To produce the current necessary to start your car it has thin plates the combined surface of which allows high current to flow. A new battery may fail if deeply discharged. It is designed to start an engine and then be recharged by your alternator, again at a fairly high rate. Some articles recommend not discharging more than 20%.

    Deep Cycle Battery

    To enable deep discharges a deep cycle battery has thicker, fewer and batter insulated plates. The battery won’t sustain as high a rate of current, but will permit deeper discharges without imminent failure.

    Gel Batteries

    Gel batteries use the same lead–acid chemistry of conventional liquid units but capture the acid in a silica gel. The plates can be made thinner and they therefore allow higher rates of charge and discharge that a deep cycle battery. Because of the manner in which they are built

    they will withstand deep charges. Any sealed battery is potentially more sensitive to charging voltage which may boil the electrolyte. Some suggest a charging current limited to 14.1 volts.

    AGM Batteries

    Other sealed batteries (absorbed electrolyte) capture a small amount of acid in a fiberglass matte separator. Because there is no liquid to slosh around the plates of a sealed battery, plates can be made thinner and still withstand deep discharges. A gel battery is thus capable of high rate charge and discharges, and offers a great many deep discharge cycles. Some suggest is not as sensitive to charging voltage.

    Charging batteries:

    The Bulk Charge step.

    When a charge source is first applied to a well discharged battery current begins to flow typically at the maximum rate of the charge source. Because most of the charge is delivered at the maximum charger rate, the first step of the charge cycle is called the bulk charge step. During the bulk step, battery voltage will steadily rise.

    The Absorption Step

    At the instant battery voltage has risen to the maximum allowable voltage of the charge source, which is typically around 14.4 volts, current through the battery begins to decline. It declines because the battery is absorbing all it can at the set voltage. This simultaneous event of reaching maximum voltage and the start of current decline marks the beginning of the absorption step. The absorption step should continue until current through the battery declines to about 2% of battery capacity in Amp–hours. Good batteries will reach a steady state current at less than 1% of Ah rating.

    The Float Step

    Once a battery is full, a lower voltage should be applied that will maintain the full charge. Depending on the type of battery, (liquid, gel), and the age of the battery, 13.4 – 13.8 Volts is appropriate as a float voltage.

    Hydrometers and Specific Gravity:

    Hydrometer Measures Weight

    A hydrometer measures the specific gravity, SG, of electrolyte, that is, how much the electrolyte weighs compared to pure water. A reading should be corrected for temperature and the battery should have been rested for 24 hours prior to taking a reading. e or discharge for 24 hours preceding the SG sample.

    Battery Health Determination

    Despite problems obtaining valid state of charge measurements, the hydrometer is easily used to determine battery health. In a healthy battery all cells will have about the same SG. If there are small cell to cell variations, then an equalization charge is needed. A typical SG is 1.265. That is the electrolyte weighs 1.265 times as much as water. Usually the decimal point is dropped and the SG is referred to as 1265 points. Cell to cell differences of up to 30 points can be corrected by equalization. A difference of 50 points or more from cell to cell indicate a bad battery.
     


    Cruising Considerations (Aug 2004)


    The tragic Sydney to Hobart Race of 1998 and the Coroner's findings have resulted in many changes to the safety requirements and training of personnel in regard to yacht racing. A flow on to clubs and associations has been the Risk Management assessment of the activities they conduct and an evaluation of what they require from participants in their activities. E.g the AYF/YV require all participants in yacht racing to sign a declaration indicating the safety level to which their yacht complies. Participants in the Marlay Point Overnight Race had to carry their insurance papers with them in addition to complying with the safety requirements.

    My yacht club, Geelong Trailable, requires me to submit a photocopy of my insurance papers when I renew my membership each year. It is probable that visiting yachts participating in events such as the Geelong to Queenscliff Race will have to provide evidence of their level of insurance cover. Subsequent boating mishaps and tragedies bring further determinations from coroners and as a consequence the likelihood of blanket legislation appears imminent.

    It is only a matter of time, I believe, before it will be a requirement from members participating in organized cruises with a club or association to sign a declaration similar to that required by racing personnel.

    From the moment we joined the Ultimate Yacht Association (Sept 1988) it was evident that:

    1. The Association promoted safe boating practices. e.g. - maintaining a boat in a seaworthy condition

    - equipping a boat to a reasonable safety standard

    - taking adequate safety precautions, i.e when the weather deteriorates reef the sails, fit stormboards, wear life jackets.

    2. Cruise Leaders, in consultation with experienced members, have implemented appropriate Risk Management strategies.

    The Concour's D'Elegance Trophy was donated to encourage owners to equip their boats to an appropriate safety standard for cruising - in essence an abridged version of the category 5 racing requirement. The name is a slight misnomer as it is not necessarily the prettiest/newest boat that gets the trophy , as the criteria for judging is weighted towards the carrying of appropriate safety equipment.

    On the following table I have listed the Safety requirements for Category 5 Racing (a race in protected water, in trailable boats, racing without effective rescue availability). The M signifies mandatory equipment, N mandatory for night races and R for recommended equipment. Under the heading Concours, a C indicates judging criteria. An E under the Easter 2003 heading indicates what cruise participants considered desirable equipment, during a brainstorming exercise on the beach at Duck Arm. The final column is for members to indicate with a tick the equipment that they have on board their boat. The L indicates items required by law and will require a tick.

    N.B. The Association is not indicating any items as mandatory. The Association, as always, is encouraging members to equip their boats to a suitable level of safety for their own protection. As a guide I have indicated what is required for yachtspersons participating in racing and what members have collectively suggested should be carried.

    I encourage all cruising people who are not familiar with the "Blue Book" to borrow a copy and read through Addendum A and the requirements for Category 5. The contents of the "Blue Book" are also on the AYF web site under Racing. The YV "Compliance Certificate and Safety Equipment Checklist" can be found at www.vyc.com.au under the heading "Downloads".

    I look forward to joining you in safe and enjoyable cruising in the 2004 - 2005 season. Fair winds and smooth seas.

    Len Hatfield "LAROS" UY418


    Farewell From Onya (Aug 2004)


    Thank you to all Ultimate yachts from Onya.

    Nearly 14 years ago I was a pretty little yacht. Yes indeed, I was truly ready to race (requiring some extra running tackle) but no, my skipper was given an Ultimo Proximo and attended a Committee meeting. There I met many other lovely Ultimate yachts; little ones like me, medium ones, large ones, (“They know who they were!”). They were all extremely friendly and most helpful with yachting information. One little yacht wanted to take me out, cheeky!!

    Well it happened, (I was nervous, that little yacht had a reputation!). Together with some other medium Ultimates they propelled me out onto the vast waters towards Duck Arm; dear me! I was madly spinning around in circles, I got a headache, girls! You see my skipper hardly knew the back end from the front end of me. Silly boy, he will learn?

    Years passed and my skipper did slowly learn how to handle me in a gentlemanly way. You know how we Ultimate lady yachts like it! Hard to windward and come about smartly! My skipper gave me plenty of thrills I can assure you; dear me. Oft he got carried away and we rounded up something awful!

    Amongst all this, I took my skipper on many wonderful cruises, on many different waters, with so many other lovely Ultimate yachts. They were most friendly and helpful to me on occasions of: snapped sheer pin; motor water coolant stopped; lost!

    Skip and I were often lost. Skip loves me, but he still cannot navigate; disaster! His Family gave him an Etrex GPS navigator for his 80th birthday. I think he would have still got me lost on the water with it! My skipper will use GPS for bush-walking and caravanning. I think he has forgiven me for crushing his finger when I let my mast fall on him and for gouging out the top of his head on my propeller when I had it raised!!

    You know, new Ultimate owners, your skippers will be very possessive of you, (but we like it!). Even when I was up on blocks in the garage during off season; my skip would not leave me alone; naughty boy!! We loved being together; as he was busy fitting out my internals for the next season.

    We could still hear the soft lapping of waters against my hull and shared the memories of so many wonderful cruises with so many wonderful Ultimate yachts.

    Best Wishes to all of you lovely Ultimate yachts.

    My friends; fair sailing, Onya
     


    Thinking of Solo Sailing ? (Oct 2010)


    If you are contemplating a solo voyage think very carefully.  Solo sailing is significantly risky.  Of the small bunch of Ultimate sailors who have undertaken solo (single hand) or solo (unsupported) voyages every one, including myself, has returned with tales of quite hairy experiences.  It’s fortunate that no  injury to life or limb has occurred on these various voyages but it could have. 

    So what are the risks?

  • It might seem on the map, that Port Philip and Westernport Bay are fairly protected waters, but in fact they are far from it. Both bays have lots of shallows, reefs, shoals and uncharted rocks and both bays can dish up unpredictable and damaging waves and winds.
  • During long passages the weather can and often does change quite suddenly.
  • Unexpected big waves occur partly due to the shallows and shoals.  More than one of our sailors have told stories of being rolled or swamped from astern.
  • The U18 (the only Ultimates to have attempted these voyages) has no auto steering and while some kind of tiller clutch is essential, a short boat like the U18 will only hold course for a few seconds with a secured tiller.
  • Strong tidal currents can also put you into danger and even take you backwards.
  • Gear failure or motor breakdown can obviously spell serious trouble.
  • There are few safe havens on either of our bays and some of the approaches can be tricky.  The entrance to Werribee River is particularly unpredictable and potentially dangerous.
  • If you become injured, which is actually more likely in the solo situation, remember that help is a long way away.
  • Most of us have had tricky and anxious experiences on our boats, but when you are alone, tired and can’t leave the cockpit, tricky can become treacherous.
  •  So what to do ? 

     The first suggestion would be to seriously consider not starting, but if this fails it is very important to make very thorough preparation.

     1. Preparing yourself  in terms of knowledge and skills

  • Talk to one of the UYA sailors who has done a voyage of this kind.
  • Ensure that you have all the skills necessary to be safe. Skills in navigation and GPS, safe anchoring when solo, docking and rope handling and how to heave to.
  • Ability and equipment to reef down from the cockpit in the event of rising wind.
  • Make a precise plan of your intended voyage which includes plotting and knowing all the channels, shoals and markers that you will or could encounter on your trip.
  • Be well informed about  tide times, currents and current strengths.
  • Try to choose  a favourable window of good weather for your trip.
  • Be flexible in terms of the time you have allowed so that if necessary you can prop for a day or two until conditions improve.
  • Dealing with damage such as a cracked keel case is very difficult.  It has happened.
  •  2. Preparation of your boat and gear

  • Ensure that your boat is sound in rig, keel cable, rudder etc. Thorough checking is vital.
  • If  you have any doubt at all about the reliability of your motor have it serviced.
  • Install an effective tiller “clutch” with which you can temporarily hold the tiller, keeping in mind that this will keep your boat on course only very briefly.
  • Have an effective slab reefing system so you can reef your main from the cockpit.
  • A preventer is desirable.
  • Carry a mobile phone, which of course must be suitably charged and rechargeable.
  •  3. Before setting off; on every leg of your voyage –

  • Let someone know of your schedule and expected arrival times.  Contact again on arrival.
  • Check weather information daily and have contingency plans.
  • Good luck and bon voyage.

    David Judkins